The Sock Knitter Patterns


Here's a couple of the patterns from the instruction manual for my sock knitter.   The book is titled "Knitting Manual of Instruction & Sales", first edition compiled by Clearfield Knitting Machine Co., Clearfield, Pa. 1927. 

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Men's Half Hose for Dress

CYLINDER NO. 100—WOOL YARN SIZE 2-18.
TOP IS ONE AND ONE RIBBED—LEG 3 AND 1
FOOT IS RIBBED 3 AND 1 ACROSS THE INSTEP TO TOE.

Adjust Machine and Ribbing Attachment for 1 and 1 rib, removing every other Cylinder needle (50). Fix tension to 1/2 turn looser (Cam Nut screwed down) than Standard Tension would be for plain knitting.
Set up yarn on Cylinder needles (50) and place the Ribber on Machine using all Dial needles (50) and place the, Ribber on Machine using all Dial needles (50) and knit 2 complete rounds. Make 3 rounds for SELVEDGE (Tappet Lever to "Selvedge").
For the RIBBED TOP knit about 60 rounds (4 1/2 inches) (Tappet Lever to "Ribbing").
Re-set tension to 1/4 turn tighter (Cam Nut unscrewed)
Replace half the Cylinder needles (25) in every other empty Cylinder groove.

Transfer the corresponding Dial needle stitches (25) to the empty Cylinder needles (25) removing the 25 empty Dial needles. (The result should be 75 Cylinder needles and 25 Dial needles in use.) Knit for top of LEG about 50 rounds (4 inches) without changing tension.

Reset tension to ¼ turn tighter (Cam Nut unscrewed) and knit about 30 rounds (2 1/2 inches) for the ANKLE.

Place 13 Cylinder needles into 13 empty Cylinder grooves in the front half of Cylinder. Transfer the 13 corresponding Dial needle stitches to these 13 empty Cylinder needles and remove the empty 13 Dial needles. Knit about 20 rounds (1 1/2 inches) which finishes the LEG, about 100 rounds in all or (8 inches).

With the Yarn Carrier resting at the front of Machine, push out the remaining Dial needles (12) just far enough so the Ribbing Attachment can be lifted from the Machine. The Dial needle hooks (12) will still be holding to their stitches, and will hang down inside of the Cylinder while you are knitting the heel. Loosen tension 1/4 turn (screw Cam Nut down) and hook on the Take-Up Spring. Knit a HEEL the regular way. Remove the Take-Up Spring and re-adjust tension, to ¼ turn tighter (unscrew Cam Nut). Swing the 12 Dial needles up over and allow to hang down on outside of back of Cylinder, still holding their stitches. Replace Ribbing Attachment and the 12 Dial needles still holding their stitches. Knit, for size 11, about 85 rounds (7 inches) for the FOOT.

Transfer the Dial needles loops (12) at the back of Cylinder to new empty Cylinder needles placed in their corresponding Cylinder grooves. Remove again the Ribbing Attachment, then knit 2 rounds on these 100 Cylinder needles. Loosen tension 1/4 turn and knit TOE same as HEEL, making 4 rounds extra, when finishing, with all Cylinder needles knitting, and remove hose from the Machine.

Press out this edge, ravel back these 4 extra rounds, and carefully close.

FINISHING

Firmly press with a hot iron and damp cloth all of the hose excepting the ribbed top, which should be left natural and elastic.

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"Jane" Stocking Cap No.43
CYLINDER NO. 60—SUITABLE HEAVY YARN
OR LIGHT YARN DOUBLED.

Adjust the Knitting Machine and Ribbing Attachment for a 2 and 1 Rib, using all Cylinder needles (60) and all Dial needles (30). Same as for Scarf. Set up yarn on the Cylinder, and place Ribbing Attachment on with all needles. Knit with a very loose tension at least 180 rounds, the same way and kind of tubing as knit for scarves.

Cast off the Dial stitches, pulling down on the knitting to run these stitches to the Set-Up end. Run the knitting off the Machine, and press the tubing on a thin pressing board; the same as for Scarves. Pull one end of tubing up inside of balance of tubing, bind the ends together when laid out flat, and fold 4 or 5 inches of the doubled open end of tubing up over the cap.

Pull each of the end corners down over the knitting, and fasten to the upper edge of the double fold, Attach fluff balls to either side.

Color stripes can be made while knitting to appear on the folded-up band.

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"Dick" Stocking Cap No.44
CYLINDER NO. 80—SUITABLE YARN SIZE 3-16

Adjust the Knitting Machine and Ribbing Attachment for 2 and 1 Rib, using a very loose tension—continue to knit tubing at least 200 rounds the same as for No. 43, but, instead of binding the ends, you will insert a Draw String through the loops around each end, drawing up to a point with the Draw String. Double the tubing, one end up into the other, and attach a yarn Fluff Ball to the top.

Make about a 4 inch fold on the bottom. This folded band, if desired can be made in a different colored yarn than the top, (sufficient of the middle section of the tubing, while being knit,is made with the different color of yarn).

You should brush the turned up band with a Teasel Brush after the Cap is finished.

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"Mary" Stocking Cap No.45
CYLINDER NO. 60-MYSTIC YARN SIZE 2-7

Adjust the Knitting Machine and Ribbing Attachment for 2 and 1 Rib to knit a very loose tension, and make at least 200 rounds—following the same instructions as for No. 43. Instead of Binding the ends of tubing flat, you will draw the ends together with a Draw String—same as instructed in No. 44—and bring the doubled top of the Cap down over and attach to one side of the Cap, as illustrated.
The band is made of different color of yarn if desired, by knitting it in the tubing. The tubing for this number should be made longer than for other caps.

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Knee Length Heavy Hose for Sportsmen
Cylinder No. 60—Red Top wool yarn size 4-10.
Grey Body wool yarn size 4-10.
Top is 1 and 1 rib—Leg is 2 and 1 rib. Foot is knit plain.

Adjust Machine and Ribbing Attachment for 2 and 1 rib knitting, with the Dial needles (30) operating together with all Cylinder needles (60).

Place the Cylinder Pin Clip on the Cylinder Pin so that the Dial needles will not strike the Cylinder needles in operating.

Fix the tension to knit very loose, almost as loose as possible to be able to knit (Cam Nut screwed down).

Set up yarn on the Cylinder needles (60) and place the Ribber on the Machine, using all Dial needles (30) and knit 3 complete rounds, seeing that all needles are knitting.

Tie on red yarn size 4-10 or some other suitable heavy colored yarn for TOP, and knit 1 complete round. (When using heavy yarn always splice the ends instead of tying.) Lift up, out of use, every other Cylinder needle (30) clear around the Cylinder. Make 1 round for SELVEDGE (Tappet Lever to Selvedge).

After knitting the 1 round place Tappet Lever to (Ribbing) and push down again the 30 Cylinder needles into action. For the colored RIB TOP knit about 35 rounds (4 1/2 inches). Splice on Body yarn, and knit 2 rounds.

There are now in operation 60 Cylinder needles and 30 Dial needles, for a 2 and 1 RIB LEG.

Be sure tension is very loose and Crank can be turned easily. Hold down securely on the knitting and knit for the LEG about 90 rounds, (10 inches).

Transfer all Dial needle stitches (30) to their nearest adjoining Cylinder needles (30), removing the Dial needles as their stitches are transferred, and remove the Ribbing Attachment from the machine.

Readjust the tension to one turn tighter (Cam Nut unscrewed) or to a tension which makes loose, soft yet heavy knitting. Knit, for the ANKLE, about 20 rounds (2 inches) plain.

Hook yarn on Take-Up Spring, readjust tension one half to a full turn looser (Cam Nut screwed down) and make the HEEL the usual way.

Release the Take-Up Spring and readjust tension again same as for the ANKLE, and knit the FOOT about 70 rounds (7 inches) for size 11. Knit the TOE same as HEEL. When finishing the TOE, and with all Cylinder needles down in use, knit 4 extra rounds.

Press out this TOE edge, ravel back the 4 rounds and close.

FINISHING

A suitable form board must be made for pressing this Sportsmen’s hose as an ordinary sock form is not long enough, nor is it the right shape.

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Here's a couple of pictures of the bale counter/row counter I use on my CSM.  It works great.  My husband took a small piece of metal and attached it where the leg to the stand screws on.  You will probably have to fiddle with it to see just where to attach so it trips automatically as you crank.  I started out just attaching it to the little tray where the needles are with a piece of velcro but it didn't really stay attached very well.  One thing you will also have to do when making the heels and toes is find a way to hold the tripper down because otherwise you can't crank backwards to do the heel.  I have used a rubber band and a piece of elastic with a hole in it that I slip over the tripper lever to pull it down.  Send me an email if you have any questions.

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Just click on the pictures to enlarge and then use your 'back' button to return.